May 20, 2012

Authenticity on MacDill

Osteria Natalina serves up authentic Italian dishes with a charm

Story By: Natalie Lanz

Osteria Natalina came to fruition after long thought on how to bring authentic Italian food back to the Tampa Bay Area. All that thinking paid off because this is one dining experience you cannot afford to miss. This culinary gem can be found on MacDill Avenue, cozily tucked into the Bayshore Plaza. The Italian term Osteria is described as casual dining that gives you the opportunity to enjoy a high quality meal in a relaxed environment. When we entered Osteria Natalina we were promptly greeted by the owner Spartaco, more fondly known to his patrons as “Sparky”, who was tying his apron preparing for the dinner rush. Spartaco arrived in Tampa over 25 years ago making his start in the Bay area restaurant business with one of his cousins.

The beautifully lit restaurant was decorated with pictures of the restaurant’s namesake and inspiration, Spartaco’s mother Natalina, making homemade pasta. Natalina made pasta everyday during Spartaco’s childhood and she often visits Tampa to keep the tradition alive. Italian music gently played as we took our seats and one can’t help but wonder if you’re not in Spartaco’s hometown of Rimini.

Fresh bread and three olive tapenade were placed on our table as the server recited the specials, each sounding more incredible than the last. Fresh lasagna made daily, lobster stuffed ravioli, could it be? Had Spartaco stumped the Supper Club? We deferred to him completely and so our gastronomical adventure began. Our first course was a pasta sampler offering two exquisite types of homemade pasta. Asiago cheese stuffed gnocchi with pink sauce and saccotini pasta, which had the appearance of parcels, stuffed with four cheeses and pear covered in a creamy gorgonzola walnut sauce. Each of these was unique, decadent and melted in our mouths.

Next were the seafood courses. The seaside town of Rimini, located on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, is known for the preparation of its fresh seafood and pastas, which Osteria Natalina aims to duplicate with great success. We began with the Tuna Carpaccio. It was fragrant and visually stunning. The thin, lightly seared tuna enveloped a salad of arugula, capers, onions, red peppers and artichokes. It was finished with a drizzle of olive oil and fresh cracked pepper. The textural combination of tender tuna and crisp herbs was magnificent. It had just the right touch of acidity, bringing the dish full circle. Our second seafood course was a dish of mussels in a white wine sauce with thick chopped garlic and fresh ground pepper. This may sound simple, but this dish was a winner. The freshness of the seafood shone through and Jodi Lokay and I could not get enough of the white wine sauce dipping our fresh bread in what was left of it.

Next was an incredibly impressive dish: the squid ink risotto with grilled calamari and baby clams. What was particularly great about this dish was the preparation and cut of the calamari. There is nothing more heartbreaking than being served small rubbery rings of calamari. This is why we fell in love with the thick cut pieces of calamari steak that were perfectly grilled to retain their juices and flavor. These strips of calamari were placed over a bed of risotto the resting place for baby clams on their shells and infused with squid ink and clam sauce, truly a delicacy!

At this point we had our fill of amazing food, but we had to brave on for you the reader and try the veal two ways that Spartaco had prepared for us. Both portions of meat were prepared “scaloppini” or pounded into a thin cut. The preparations were Marsala and Pictatta divided by a bed of fresh vegetables. The Marsala came with large mushroom pieces and a dark rich wine sauce, while the Picatta was slightly lighter with capers, butter, garlic and lemon. Each one was out of this world. Our entire meal paired well with a 2008 Centine Toscana blend, just one of the great selections on the wine list designed by Spartaco’s lovely wife Dominique.

Last, but not least, came our heavenly dessert platter with triple chocolate gelato, amaretto cake and chocolate chip cannoli. This was the perfect finish to a perfect meal. Usually, there is one particular dish that rises above the rest, but not this time around. Jodi and I we blown away by everything. Aside from the superior cuisine, what makes Osteria Natalina an exceptional place is the experience. Spartaco, Dominique and their staff go above and beyond to make you feel at home and meet your needs. It was inspiring to see an owner and his team who were so knowledgeable about their products. As we observed the dining room, we noticed that Spartaco had not only taken time out to speak with us, but each of the tables. He even removed a map from the wall when one couple had some questions about his town in Italy. We all know that poor customer service, despite a good meal can ruin an evening out. What a delight that you can have both excellent service and excellent food at Osteria Natalina.

For those readers looking to expand their cultural and culinary horizon’s Osteria Natalina offers gastronomic tours. They are for groups of no more than 8 with a minimum of 4. The recommended months of travel are September to the first week of November and again in the spring until June. The duration of the trip is 9 days and includes food, accommodations and Spartaco as your driver and tour guide. The trip highlights include visits to olive oil, balsamic vinegar and pasta factories and covers two regions in Northern Italy.

As we walked to the car after our leisurely meal filled with great conversation and gourmet dishes, Jodi and I were reminded of what good food and great dining is all about. Grazie Mille, Osteria Natalina!


Osteria Natalina

3215 S. MacDill Ave Tampa, Fl 33629
(813) 831-1210
Closed Monday
Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10:30.
No Reservations

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